


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (pb)
Marsoni
M251S
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Friday, May 29
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (pb)Author: William Finnegan Paperback Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he
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